By Maria Concepcion – Certified Micropigmentation Instructor (CMI)and Certified Permanent makeup Professional (CPCP)

As microblading artists, it’s important to understand the different blade sizes and shapes if we are to create hair strokes with different lengths, thicknesses and curves.  Researching various types and sizes of microblades can be confusing, but here are a few simple guidelines:  

Flexible blades (also known as flex or flexi blades) are great for beginners and advanced artists.  Because they are flexible, they can absorb pressure, so you get a super soft and superficial hair stroke.  The flexible base helps prevent going too deep as it goes through the skin.  The base absorbs some of the pressure.  It is still possible to go too deep with a flexi blade, but not as easily as with a hard blade.  You may need to repeat the hair stroke on the second pass in order to get the desired intensity.  They are ideal for sensitive, thin, aged or compromised skins.  The pro to using a flexi blade is the safety net it provides.  The con is that it is not as steady as the hard blades.  Flexi blades are bound together using soft leather or synthetic fabric or plastic which gives them their flexibility.  

Hard blades are considered the divas of the microblading world.  They are for bold, confident results.  They are stable but have no give. Because they are zero absorption and not soft (unlike the flexible blades), they tend to go deeper into the skin with less pressure.  They are bound together with metal so there is no soft absorption.  The results are more definition in the hair stroke.  I would not recommend a hard blade for sensitive or thin skin.  They are great for regular, thick and hard skin.

Once you’ve decided whether to use a flexi or a hard blade, the next factor is the diameter of the blade.  Knowing the diameter of your blade will determine how thick the strokes will be. This is important to know if we want to be able to mimic the client’s hair exactly or if we want to create multi-dimensional designs.

For more information on blades and machine needles, call Beau Institute and sign up for our “Know Your Needles” inhouse or online class.

Maria Concepcion is Instructor at the Beau Institute for our fundamental permanent makeup classes and advanced classes.  She has been a practicing permanent makeup professional since 2006.  She is an AAM certified instructor (CMI) and certified permanent makeup cosmetic profession (CPCP) by the SPCP.

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