Microblades: Flexible Blades vs. Hard Blades

By Maria Concepcion – Certified Micropigmentation Instructor (CMI)and Certified Permanent Makeup Professional (CPCP)

As microblading artists, it’s important to understand the different blade sizes and shapes if we are to create hair strokes with different lengths, thicknesses and curves. Researching various types and sizes of microblades can be confusing, but here are a few simple guidelines:  

Flexible blades (also known as flex or flexi blades) are great for beginners and advanced artists.  Because they are flexible, they can absorb pressure, so you get a super soft and superficial hair stroke.  The flexible base helps prevent going too deep as it goes through the skin.  The base absorbs some of the pressure.  It is still possible to go too deep with a flexi blade, but not as easily as with a hard blade.  You may need to repeat the hair stroke on the second pass in order to get the desired intensity.  They are ideal for sensitive, thin, aged or compromised skins.  The pro to using a flexi blade is the safety net it provides.  The con is that it is not as steady as the hard blades.  Flexi blades are bound together using soft leather or synthetic fabric or plastic which gives them their flexibility.  

Hard blades are considered the divas of the microblading world.  They are for bold, confident results.  They are stable but have no give. Because they are zero absorption and not soft (unlike the flexible blades), they tend to go deeper into the skin with less pressure.  They are bound together with metal so there is no soft absorption.  The results have more definition in the hair stroke.  I would not recommend a hard blade for sensitive or thin skin.  They are great for regular, thick, and hard skin.

The choice between flexible and hard microblades often comes down to the artist's skill level and personal preference. some artists may switch between booth types depending on the client's skin type, desired brow style, and their own comfort with each type of blade.

Once you’ve decided whether to use a flexi or a hard blade, the next factor is the diameter of the blade.  Knowing the diameter of your blade will determine how thick the strokes will be. This is important to know if we want to be able to mimic the client’s hair exactly or if we want to create multi-dimensional designs.

Mastering the art of microblading requires dedication and a keen eye for detail. Remember, practice makes perfect—take the time to hone your technique on practice skins before working on clients. Additionally, staying updated with the latest trends and techniques through workshops and continuous education will keep your skills sharp and your clients satisfied.

Lastly, always prioritize client consultation and communication. Understanding their expectations and preferences ensures you deliver results that exceed their dreams. By following these tips and embracing creativity, you'll elevate your microblading career to new heights of success and satisfaction.

For more information on blades and machine needles, call Beau Institute by Rizzieri and sign up for our 2-Day Advanced Microblade & Shade class.

Maria Concepcion is an Instructor at the Beau Institute by Rizzieri for our fundamental permanent makeup classes and advanced classes.  She has been a practicing permanent makeup professional since 2006.  She is an AAM certified instructor (CMI) and certified permanent makeup cosmetic professional (CPCP) by the SPCP.

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